Hiking Sri Lanka's Hill Country
While soft-sand beaches and
lowland jungles may be the first images that leap to mind when you imagine Sri
Lanka, this tropical isle is endowed with a mountainous interior that is every
bit as scenic as the coast, blessed by pleasantly cool temperatures that rarely
tip 21ºC.
Rising at dawn is the best way to
see this region of Sri Lanka burst into life, as the rising sun spills across
lush and sweeping amphitheaters of green, and views stretch to the horizon,
undimmed by early mists and the clouds that roll in mid-morning, obscuring
famous vistas.
Tea pickers near Haputale in Sri
Lanka's Hill Country © Ella Tuul and Bruno Morandi / Getty Images
On the southern slopes of the , the towns of , and are
surrounded by a blanket of vast, eye-pleasing tea estates, where swirls of
planted tea bushes are stamped onto the landscape like colossal green
fingerprints. It's truly delightful hiking territory, criss-crossed by trails
that serve up some of Sri Lanka’s best views.
Alternative World’s Ends
The most famous Hill Country
panorama is the evocatively-named in , but the sublime
views come with crowds and high national park entry fees that can exceed US$20
for foreign visitors.
Tea bushes forming giant
fingerprints when viewed from above © craftvision / Getty Images
Luckily, Sri Lanka offers a
series of alternative World’s Ends, reached by stunning hikes through similarly
spectacular natural scenery, but without the crowds and high entry fees – most
are free to visit, and even , perhaps the best known, has a
modest entry fee of just Rs 50 (US$0.33).
Tasting Lipton’s delight
For my own explorations of Sri
Lanka’s lush, green hills, I chose the ridge-top town of Haputale, jumping-off
point for an early morning ramble to Lipton’s Seat. From this lofty perch above
the Dambetenne tea estate, tea’s most famous patron, the English trader Sir
Thomas Lipton, once surveyed his vast Ceylonese holdings.
My first stop on the journey was
the – Sri Lanka’s first, founded by Sir
Thomas in 1890. Reached via a rewarding 11km walk or short bus or tuk-tuk ride
from Haputale, the Dambatenne estate marks the start of a 7km track that climbs
400m through luxuriant tea bush landscapes to Lipton’s eponymous lookout.
Sweeping views from the trail to
Lipton's Seat © Ethan Gelber / Lonely Planet
Despite the topography, I found the walk restful
rather than strenuous; two hours of weaving through rolling plantations, alive
with fluttering butterflies and dotted with plantation workers’ homes and
groups of Tamil tea pickers, usually chest-deep amidst the bushes, filling bags
or baskets with Sri Lanka’s best leaves.
Waving and smiling at tea-pickers earned a warm
response, as did my requests for directions. The latter is definitely advised
if you plan to tackle the steep, stepped shortcuts running directly through the
plantations. At the top of the climb, I found a bronze statue of Sir Thomas
Lipton posing with a cuppa in front of a cascade of misty green hills, a small
teashop serving fresh brews and treats, and little else to disturb the
serenity.
Other top-notch walks
Lipton’s Seat is only one of many
wonderful walking destinations in Sri Lanka’s Hill Country. Here are some more
recommendations for ways to soak up the scenery and bask in the balmy highland
climate.
Pilkington Point & Millennium Point
Start: Bandarawela
Duration: four hours roundtrip
Named after Sir George Pilkington, a 19th-century
English tea pioneer, Pilkington Point (about 1400m above sea level) is marked
by a simple hut, erected on the spot where Sir George is said to have paused to
admire the sprawling extents of the Poonagala tea estate, and a century-old,
painted stone signboard identifying local landmarks.
Pilkington Point is a one-hour walk (about 1½km) up a marked trail, forking off
the Bandarawela-Koslanda road. If you still have energy to spare, a signed path
climbs vigorously onwards for another 45 minutes to Millennium Point, one of
the highest lookouts in the highlands at 1500m. The platform at the top has
been slowly deteriorating, so be careful, and be wary of wild elephants and
boars, especially in the evening.
Ella Rock
Start: Ella
Duration: four hours roundtrip
Reaching the exposed crag jutting out from the west
side of Ella Gap involves a steep and challenging walk, starting on the railway
tracks toward Bandarawela. After about 2½ km, a dirt trail turns sharply left –
it's beyond the metal bridge and Kithalella train station but before the 166¼km
marker (a faded blue arrow painted on a boulder shows the way). After leaving
the railway, it’s just uninterrupted nature all the way to the top of the rock.
The final stretch is the steepest, but the views are their own reward. For an
easier excursion, a two-hour roundtrip from Ella will take you as far as Little
Adam’s Peak, a lower promontory to the east.
Adisham Bungalow & Tangamale Sanctuary
From: Haputale
Duration: Five hours
roundtrip
Plonked slightly incongruously in the tropical landscape, is
a large and stout, Tudor-style, granite country mansion surrounded by English
gardens and orchards, a 3km walk or taxi ride west of Haputale town. Completed
in 1931 by a Scottish tea planter, the house has been a Sylvestro Benedictine
monastery since 1961, but guests are welcome to explore the grounds and visit
two preserved colonial rooms.
To the left of Adisham’s front gates, a signed walking
track runs west for about 8km along the crest of the ridge through the tranquil
Tangamale Sanctuary. It’s a serene walk through pine and eucalyptus groves
sheltering birds like mini-verts, green barbets, blue magpies, hornbills and
orioles. The trail ends at the railroad tracks for a walk back to Haputale or
onward to Idalgshinna. This is not a walk for vertigo sufferers; the path is
steep, though easy to follow.
Walking practicalities
No matter where you go in the
Hill Country, you’re rarely far from human habitation, especially in this
heavily cultivated part of the southern hills. However, don’t let this create a
false sense of security. Possible hazards include leeches, tropical storms
(lightning has killed people at high elevations) and large wildlife, including
boars and elephants, which can be aggressive; encounters are more likely in the
late afternoon or early evening. Consider hiring a local guide in advance if
you don’t feel secure or confident on your own. Otherwise, follow standard
rules for trekking in the tropics – wear comfortable hiking shoes and carry
rainproofs/windproofs, sunscreen, bug repellent and sufficient water for the
whole trip.
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